In the early days of Flying Pig I printed an annual cataologue of all the model from the site. One year, as an added value item in the catalogue, I added this Cat o' Log cat on the last page for people to cut out and make.
Today I received an email from subscriber Carolyn asking about the availability of the Cat o' Log model. I had forgotten all about it but a little searching through my Hard Disks and I turned up the file and couple of images.
I'm pleased to be able to share the file here on the website for everyone to download and make.
The file comes with both parts and instructions on a single sheet, the second page of the file is to be printed on the back, flip the sheet over and return in to the printer before printing out page two.
Thanks for the reminder Carolyn, have fun!
Keyboard Kat! Turn the handle and the cat tickles the ivories whilst nodding along to the beat! Members and Patrons can download the parts for free at the link. Non-members can join in the fun for £2.50
Click the picture to the left to see the model in animated action on my Instagram feed.
Once you have downloaded the parts, print out the pages onto thin card. (230grm/67lb) are ideal. The colour version is printed on both the front and back of the page. Print out the front of a page, flip it over and return it to the printer then print out the back.
Once the ink is completely dry, score along all the dotted and dashed lines, cut out the holes then carefully cut out the parts.
The base and top are basically the same but the top has this extra hole in it. Fold in the sides to make right angle triangles then glue them down.
Fold in the end tabs on the end pieces to make triangular tubes.
Glue the cam follower spacer to the underside of the top between the two small marks on the top.
Glue the box ends to the box top. Note the alignment and position of the end with the holes, it is important that it is fitted the right way round.
Fold round the box and glue it down.
Glue in the side flaps.
Fold in the small tabs and glue them to the inside wall of the box.
Roll up and glue the four tubes lining up them as accurately as possible with the edge of the glue area.
There are various parts that are double thickness card shown below. Fold them round and glue them down as shown. Once the glue is dry carefully cut out the parts.
The three cam followers are all made the same way.
Fold over the main body and glue it down to make double thickness card.
Fold round the tab at the end to make a small triangle tube
Fold up the stiffener as shown
Glue the stiffener to the cam follower.
A small coin (20mm diameter, 4gm weight) is used as a weight for each of the cam follows. I used UK pennies. Fold a scrap of card tightly round the coin and glue it down as shown.
Glue the coin to the end of the cam follower.
Fold the tab with the triangle piece under the cam follower and glue it down.
The three cam followers completed.
Fit the cams to the square cam shaft. The single lobed cam fits in the centre. The two lobed cams should be at ninety degrees to each other. I didn't glue them so that I could try different cam profiles at a later date. Glue one of the axle tubes into the square tube. Don't fit the other one yet.
Assemble the handle in three steps.
Thread the cam shaft into the box then fit the final axle tube into place on the right side of the picture. No need to glue it, friction will hold it into place.
Thread the three cam followers into the box above the cams and glue them to the box end as shown.
Glue the handle into place. The view from the other end. Turn the hand and the cam followers should move up and down.
Assemble the two arm axles as shown.
Glue a strap to each arm axle.
Fold a body sides round an arm axle and glue it closed. When you pull the strap the arm axle should turn. Make up the other body side in the same way but with the pull strap on the other side of the axle.
Join the two body sides using the body front as show. The pull straps should be at the back of the body on both sides.
Roll the body right round and glue it down.
The arm parts. Note that the left and right arm parts are different, don't mix them up. Shown here are the left arm parts.
Fold found and glue the upper arm. Glue the lower arm to the back tab on the upper arm.
Glue the upper and lower arm together.
Glue the arm cover into position. (This part is the same on both arms.) Make up the other arm in the same way.
Gently open out the hole in the arm with a chop stick or other suitable implement.
Both arms assembled.
Turn the arm axles so that the internal swing arm is horizontal then glue the arm onto the axle so that the forearm is also horizontal.
The black line on the head is not a mouth, it is actually a slot for a strap to fit through!
Thread the final strap through it and glue to the inside of the head.
Assemble the nose and whiskers and glue them into place.
Work your way round the head gluing the front of the sides.
Glue on the ears.
Thread the head strap down through the hole on the body then glue the head to the body.
Assemble the stool.
Glue the stool to the box.
Thread the three straps through the hole on the legs then glue the legs to the body.
Thread the straps down through the hole in the stool and out through the back of the box.
Fitting the straps to the cam followers is the same process for each cam.
Turn the cam until the cam follower is at its maximum height. Pull the strap so that the forearm is horizontal and mark with a pencil where the strap meets the cam follower. Cut off the excess strap approximately 5mm below the mark then crease the strap at the pencil mark. Glue the strap to the cam follower.
Assemble the keyboard as shown.
Fit the keyboard to the box so that the keyboard is under where the arms fall naturally.
With the arms at their lowest point you may need to make small adjustments by gently bending the forearm so that they just touch the keyboard.
Glue the tail to the cat, and glue the name plate across the front of the box to complete the model.
Once the glue is dry, turn the handle to bring the Keyboard Kat to life!
Twitterer Type 3
In the previous blog post I showed a design for a crank driven bellows to be used at the heart of a bird box project. I have taken that basic design and made it more sturdy. I liked the way the bellows in the previous model were completely visible so I've fitted the crank to the inside of a box but kept the bellows on a pair of slide rails outside the box. You can see the result in animated action on Instagram by clicking the picture to the left.
If you are a Member or a Patron you can download the parts for free, thanks for your support! Non members can join in the fun for a small fee.
The first page of the file needs to be printed onto normal printer paper. The remaining pages need to be printed onto thin card (230gsm / 67lb) I used coloured paper and card for a colourful model. Score the dotted and dashed lines. Cut out the holes then carefully cut out the parts.
The push rod ends are made from double thickness card. Fold them over and glue them down. Once the glue is dry cut out the hole and cut out the parts,
Assemble the push rod and glue the push rod ends into place.
Roll up and glue down the three axle tubes.
Fit the shortest axle tube into the push rod.
Make up the two crank pieces.
Glue the crank pieces to the axle. Leave a small gap between the crank pieces and the push rod so that it remains free to turn.
Fold up and glue the flaps on the box pieces making triangular tube sections.
Assemble the sliders.
Glue the slider to the glue area on the box side making sure that the holes are lined up accurately. The large arrow in the glue area points up to the top of the slider.
Glue together the two box sides. Glue down the top flaps on the box but not the base flaps.
Assemble the handle as shown.
Make up the bellows top and base by gluing down the card to make double thickness.
Glue together the two parts of the cross piece.
Thread the crank into position and glue in the two remaining axle pieces.
Glue down the base flaps then glue the side flaps to the inside of the box.
Make up the two sleeves.
Thread the sleeves into position.
Glue in the cross piece keeping it as square as possible.
Turn the model over and glue the push rod tab to one side of the crosspiece inner.
Glue the handle into position.
Make up the pipe body and pipe end.
Glue the two parts of the pipe together lining up the end with the glue area on the body. Blow through the pipe to make sure it works. Make small adjustments to the position of the pipe end if necessary before the glue dries.
Glue the pipe to the bellows top plate lining it up over the hole.
Before starting the bellows pre-crease as many of the folds as possible. Roll round and glue down the paper to make a tube.
Starting from one end fold down one row at a time observing the hill and valley folds marked on the paper.
Glue the bellows end plate to the tabs on one end of the bellows.
Glue the other end of the bellows to the bellows end plate with the pipe.
Once the glue is dry glue the tabs on the bellows end place to the inside top of the sliders.
Let the glue dry then glue the bottom of the bellows to cross piece to complete the model. Let the glue dry completely
Turn the handle and fill the room with a keening whistle!
The bellows part of the Bird Box Project have caused me some difficulties. The problem was that as the bellows are compressed they twist. This made it difficult to mount them inside a mechanism. I've come up with a solution to the problem which I outlined in my previous blog post.
I'm now making both the new and the original designs available as a download so you can try them out first hand. Click on the image (left) to see and hear both types of bellows in action.
Print out the first two pages onto standard printer paper. The third page has the parts for the end plates and the pipes. These need to be printed onto thin card (230gsm 67lb) You will need to print this page out twice to make both models. I printed it onto two different colours of card then mixed and matched the parts to make colourful models. For both the paper and the card score along the dotted and dashed lines, cut out the holes then carefully cut out the parts.
Making The Pipes
You need a pipe for each model. Fold round and glue the pipe body.
Fold and glue the pipe cover.
Glue the pipe cover to the pipe body lining it up with the grey areas.
Two pipes ready for action.
Bellows: Original Design
Before making the bellows pre crease along the fold lines.
Form the bellows tube by rolling it round a suitable size bottle and glue down the end as accurately as possible.
Start from one end. Working down a row at a time crease the bellows following the hill and valley folds marked on the paper.
The end pieces are made from double thickness card. Fold them over and glue them down. Cut out the marked hole on the top piece.
Glue the ends into place on the tabs on the bellows.
Glue the pipe into position over the hole. Let the glue dry completely before trying out your bellows.
Bellows: New Design
The design works in the same way as the original design but every other row of creases is flipped left to right. This cancels out the rotation and makes the bellow's movement parallel. Try to pre-crease all the fold lines, it is harder than on the other design but worth the effort.
Form the bellows by rolling the paper round a suitable bottle and gluing the ends down as accurately as possible.
Start from one end. Work your way down one row at as time creasing the bellows by following the hill and valley folds marked on the paper.
Glue the end pieces into place.
Glue the pipe into place over the hole. Wait until the glue is completely dry before you try out your bellows, you don't want to blow off the pipe!
Seen below are both types of completed bellows.
My next step will be to mount the new design bellows into some type of crank mechanism. Should be fun!
Twitterer Type Two. A different layout, a different birdbox. Check out the previous post for the type one layout. In this version a central tab is moved back and forth compressing alternate bellows and sounding first one pipe then the other.
Members and Patrons can download the parts for free, thank you for your support! Non members can join in the fun for £2.00 by adding the download to the cart and checking out.
Print the two copies of the first page onto normal printer paper. The bellows need to be thin and flexible. The remaining parts need to be printed onto thin card. (230gsm/67lb) I used coloured card for a colourful model. You can use white card, coloured card or card with a printed pattern. The same goes for the paper in the bellows.
Score along the dotted and dashed lines and cut out the holes before carefully cutting out the pieces.
Fold up the bellows sides and end observing the hill and valley folds.
Glue the end to the tabs on one of the sides.
Glue on the other side to complete the bellows then repeat the process with the second bellows.
Glue the two centre pieces back to back.
Cut out the tab following the curved grey line.
Glue one set of bellows to one side...
...and the other bellows to the other side. Notice that the end of the bellows just touches the crease line on the centre piece.
Fold up the two sides making right angle triangle tubes at the sides and equilateral triangle tube at the end.
Glue the sides to the bellows and the tab on the centre piece...
...repeat the preocess on the other side.
Fold over and glue down the two link pieces making double thickness card from each one.
Glue the links to the sides using the grey areas for alignment.
Make up the pipe ends
Fold round and make the pipe body.
Glue the pipe end to the pipe body lining it up with the edges of the grey area. Repeat this process with the second pipe.
Glue one pipe to each side so that they are lined up with the holes.
Both pipes visible.
Move the centre tab up and down to sound the whistles.
Use this mechanism as the sounding part for a birdbox model.
Twitterer Type 1.
At the heart of any Bird Box is a twitterer, the mechanism that make the bird sound. I'm trying out different designs as I work on the bird box project. I hope that you will be interested to try them out for yourself. The first mechanism is the aptly named type 1. Members and Patrons can download the parts for free at the link. Non-members can join in the fun for £2.00.
Download the parts file. Print out the first page twice onto normal printer paper. This will be the bellows so needs to be flexible.
The remaining pages need to be printed onto thin card. 230gsm/67lb. I used coloured card for a colourful model. You can use white, coloured or patterned as your taste determines. Score along the dotted and dashed lines and cut out the holes before carefully cutting out the parts.
Fold up the bellows sides observing the hill and valley folds.
Glue the end into place on the tabs.
Glue on the second side being sure to keep the sides parallel. Repeat the process for the second bellows.
Glue the bellows to the bellows base.
Fold in and glue the sides of the bellows base to make triangular tubes for rigidity.
Assemble the box top and base making right angle triangle tubes.
Glue the bellows to the underside of the box top.
Glue the box ends to the box top. Note that the arrows point towards the box top and are at the side with the two air holes.
Fold round and glue the triangular sections on the box ends.
Glue the side tabs into place.
Fold in the tabs and glue them to the inside wall of the box.
The cams are made from double thickness card. Glue them down them cut them out.
Assemble the axle outer and two axle tubes.
Glue the shorter axle tube into the axle outer.
Use the markings on the cam to help design your own cam profile. I had three bumps on one cam and two on the other.
Glue the cams to the grey lines on the cam shaft.
Fit the cam shaft into the box them push in the second axle tube with a dot of glue to hold it into place.
Make up the handle
Glue the handle to the axle tube.
Make up the pipe tubes, folding in and gluing down the ends as shown.
Make up the pipe covers.
Stand the pipe on a flat surface with the slot uppermost. Fit the cover over the pipe so that it is lined up with the edges of the glue areas. You can test the pipes at this point by blowing through the hole in the base.
The two assembled pipes.
Glue the pipes over the holes in the box top to complete the project. Turn the handle and listen to the bird song!
Avast ye land-lubbers! Here be a Papertoy Pirate for ye to download and make!
The model is free for members and patrons to download, non-members can join in the fun for free at the link.
Print out the two pages onto thin card, score along the dotted and dashed lines then carefully cut out the parts.
Cut round the nose and ears and cut the two slots in the body.
Curve round and glue together the head.
Glue on the beard and tache.
Glue the long strip round the bandana.
Curve round and glue together the body.
Roll round and glue the two leg tubes.
Glue together the seams of the two leg tubes lining them up at the top.
Fit the two leg stops into place in the shorter leg.
Roll up and glue down the peg leg.
Glue the long leg to the foot and glue in the peg leg. Adjust it so that the legs stand straight.
The arms are made from double thickness card, fold them over and glue them down then carefully cut them out. Make sure you don't glue the tabs together.
Thread the two neck tabs into the body.
Glue the two arms into place.
Glue the body to the legs.
Yargh! Ye be finished!
Poseable Paper Knight to download and make. This paper project has movable arms and head as well as a removable shield. Make the model and set him up to guard your valuable possession!
Members and Patrons can of course download the model for free, thanks for your support! Non members can join in the fun for £2.50
The parts file come in both colour and uncoloured version. Print out the version of your choice onto thin card (230gsm / 67lb)
Score along the dotted and dashed lines and cut out the holes before carefully cutting out the parts.
Check out the YouTube clip!
Some of the parts are made from double thickness card. Fold them over and glue them down. Once the glue is dry, carefully cut them out.
The shield is slightly different. Glue the two parts together but before the glue is dry curve the shield across its width. Once the glue is dry, cut out the shield.
Glue together the two parts of the head. There is a very short black line on the top of the head which should line up roughly with the seam at the back of the head.
Roll the neck inner into a circular tube and glue the tabs to the inside top of the head.
Glue the three plumes to the top of the head.
Assemble the neck outer and glue on the body top. Again, a small black line lines up with the seam on the neck.
Glue the body top to the body lining up the two seams.
Both arms work in the same way.
Thread the tabbed washer through the arm. Glue one of the circles to the tabs. Make sure that the glue is only on the tabs so that the circle is free to turn.
Flip the arm over and glue on the second circle lining it up as accurately as possible with the first one.
Glue the two hinged pieces to the circles on the grey areas.
Repeat the process with the other arm. Make sure that the tabs/circles assembly is able to turn.
Thread the arms through the slots in the body and glue the tabs to the inside of the body. The arm should now be free to move up and down.
Repeat with the other arm.
Glue the sword to the hand. Glue the hand front into place.
Slot the head into position.
Roll up and glue down the legs.
Join together the two leg supporter parts.
Glue the two legs into the leg support. Widest part of the leg is at the top.
Glue the front tab of the leg support to the inside front of the body.
Glue the shield holder to the shield positioning it by holding the shield in position over the hand.
Glue the two feet to the legs.
The Paper Hen is the first part in a two part project. First project, make a Hen, second bring it to life!
Project 1: The Paper Hen makes a delightful stand-alone project which looks great on mantelpiece or next to your computer. You can also use it as part of your own automata designs. Try mashing up the Hen with one of the many Essential Mechanisms.
Print out the parts onto thin card (230micron/67lb). Sheet 1 has all the parts for the Hen, Sheet 2 is a grassy knoll for the Hen to stand on, You can just as easily stick the Hen to any other suitable piece of coloured card and save one sheet of printing.
Score along the dotted and dashed lines and carefully cut out around the wing edges before cutting out the pieces.
Fold up and glue the two legs as shown. Don't glue the knee bend yet.
Glue together the head top and sides.
Fold over and glue down the comb to make double thickness card leaving the end tabs unglued.
Once the glue has dried carefully cut out the comb.
Glue the comb to the centre top of the head with the smallest bump at the front.
Glue together the body sides and top.
Glue in the body front starting front the top of the neck.
Assemble the leg block and glue it into position just inside the body front.
Glue the legs to the leg block.
Overlap the two feet and glue the toes on top of each other in the position shown. This will give the legs a more natural look than if they are lined up exactly side to side.
Glue the knees into position so that the feet stand flat on the table top and the Hen is not leaning to one side.
The leg stop prevents the Hen from tipping over backwards. Position it so that the Hen has a natural posture when in its upright position.
Finish off the model by gluing the head into position.
Ta daa! Show your delightful Paper Hen to your amazed friends!
In the next project we'll be bringing the Paper Hen to life.