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automata

Gentleman Jack

£2.50

Your rating: None (3 votes)

Gentleman Jack-Hammer has a hole to dig. Turn the handle to help him on his way.


Members and Patrons can download this paper animation kit for free at the link. Non-members can join in the fun for £2.50/$3.75

Print out the parts onto thin card. (230 micron / 67lb is about right) Notice that the first three sheets are printed double sided. Print out the page, flip it over and print out the other side on the back.

Score along all the dotted and dashed lines and cut out the holes before carefully cutting out the parts.

 


Making the Box

Fold up the box top and base as shown, note that they are glued slightly differently.


Fold and glue box sides making triangular tubes as shown.


The cam is made from double thickness card. Fold it over and glue it down. Once the glue is dry carefully cut it out.


Thread the cam onto the cam shaft and glue it into position.


Roll round and glue the various axle tube as accurately as possible.


Glue the two axle tubes into place using the grey lines for alignment.


Glue the four parts of the box together. Use the picture to ensure that they are arranged in the correct order.

 


Fold the box round and fit the cam shaft into place.


Glue the box closed.


Make the handle in three steps.


Glue the handle to the cam shaft.


Fold round and glue down the cam follower sides.


Glue the cam follower end into place as shown.


Glue on the push rod.


Thread the push rod up through the hole in the box top. Glue the other end of the cam follower to the back of the box.


Find a small coin - a UK Penny is perfect (20mm diameter 4g weight)

Wrap and off-cut of paper round it and then glue it to the inside of the box.


Fold found and glue the jack-hammer body. Glue in the support on the opposite side to the coin.


Close up and glue the jack-hammer.

Thread in the handle.

Glue the grey area on the push rod to the support inside the jack-hammer.


Roll round and glue the legs.


Assemble the shoes.


Glue the shoes to the legs.


Glue the two legs together. Glue the leg strap in place across the top of the legs.


Glue the feet to the box top.


Curve round and glue down the jacket.


Glue together the top hat.


Make sure you cut round the ears. Glue the nose to the grey area on the face.


Fit the hat to the head.


Score along the grey lines on the arms and crease them as shown.


Roll round and glue the neck inner then glue the collar into place.


Glue the back of the head to the top back of the neck.


Glue in the two body sides.


Trim away the excess from the bottom of the sides.


Glue the collar to the body.


Glue in the three tabs.


Thread in the neck and glue it into place onto the three tabs.


Glue the hands to the jack-hammer handle so that the creases in the arm are the same distance apart as the shoulders.


Complete the model by gluing the arms to the body.

Gentleman Jack-Hammer has a hole to dig. Turn the handle to help him on his way.


Members and Patrons can download this paper animation kit for free at the link. Non-members can join in the fun for £2.50/$3.75

Print out the parts onto thin card. (230 micron / 67lb is about right) Notice that the first three sheets are printed double sided. Print out the page, flip it over and print out the other side on the back.

Score along all the dotted and dashed lines and cut out the holes before carefully cutting out the parts.

 


Making the Box

Fold up the box top and base as shown, note that they are glued slightly differently.


Fold and glue box sides making triangular tubes as shown.


The cam is made from double thickness card. Fold it over and glue it down. Once the glue is dry carefully cut it out.


Thread the cam onto the cam shaft and glue it into position.


Roll round and glue the various axle tube as accurately as possible.


Glue the two axle tubes into place using the grey lines for alignment.


Glue the four parts of the box together. Use the picture to ensure that they are arranged in the correct order.

 


Fold the box round and fit the cam shaft into place.


Glue the box closed.


Make the handle in three steps.


Glue the handle to the cam shaft.


Fold round and glue down the cam follower sides.


Glue the cam follower end into place as shown.


Glue on the push rod.


Thread the push rod up through the hole in the box top. Glue the other end of the cam follower to the back of the box.


Find a small coin - a UK Penny is perfect (20mm diameter 4g weight)

Wrap and off-cut of paper round it and then glue it to the inside of the box.


Fold found and glue the jack-hammer body. Glue in the support on the opposite side to the coin.


Close up and glue the jack-hammer.

Thread in the handle.

Glue the grey area on the push rod to the support inside the jack-hammer.


Roll round and glue the legs.


Assemble the shoes.


Glue the shoes to the legs.


Glue the two legs together. Glue the leg strap in place across the top of the legs.


Glue the feet to the box top.


Curve round and glue down the jacket.


Glue together the top hat.


Make sure you cut round the ears. Glue the nose to the grey area on the face.


Fit the hat to the head.


Score along the grey lines on the arms and crease them as shown.


Roll round and glue the neck inner then glue the collar into place.


Glue the back of the head to the top back of the neck.


Glue in the two body sides.


Trim away the excess from the bottom of the sides.


Glue the collar to the body.


Glue in the three tabs.


Thread in the neck and glue it into place onto the three tabs.


Glue the hands to the jack-hammer handle so that the creases in the arm are the same distance apart as the shoulders.


Complete the model by gluing the arms to the body.

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< | >

Flying Fish

£2.50

Your rating: None (3 votes)

Check out the Flying Fish is animated action on my Instagram feed here This paper animation is based around the Crank/Cam Essential Mechanism and fitted with one of the alternate cams from here. Members can download the model for free, thanks for your support! Non members can join in the fun for $3.75/£2.50

 


The parts are provided in both coloured and un-coloured format. Choose which you would like then print out the parts onto thin card (230gsm is ideal) The coloured sheets are printed front and back. Print out one side, flip it over and return it to the printer to print out the other side.

Score along the dotted and dashed lines and cut out the holes before carefully cutting out the parts.

Some of the parts are made from double thickness card for extra strength. Fold the card over and glue it down. Once the glue is completely dry carefully cut out the parts.

Crank ends:

Cams:

Spacers:

Fins:


Make up the two crank shaft pieces.


Roll round and glue down the axle tubes carefully lining up the edges with the end of the glue area.


Thread the shortest axle onto the two crank ends then glue them to the end of the push rod so that the axle is accurately lined up perpendicular to the push rod.


Glue the crank shaft pieces to the short axle tube. Make sure that it is free to turn.


Glue together the two slider tubes.


Glue the cam follower tube to one of the slider tubes as shown.


Thread the longest axle through the cam follower tube and glue it into position. Glue two of the spacers into position on the top of the slider tube.


Glue the other two spacers to the other slider tube.


Glue the first cam into place.


Glue the second cam to the other side.


Slide the cam follower down the push rod into position. No glue! It must be free to slide up and down.


Slip the other two slider tubes into position.


Make up the two triangular link pieces and glue them to the spacers on the top and bottom slider tube.


Tightly wrap a coin (4 gram, 20mm diameter, a UK penny is perfect!) in a scrap of card.


Glue the coin package to the front of the cam follower to complete the crank/cam assembly.


Making the Box

Fold round and glue down the tabs on the box top and base to make triangular sections.


Fold round and glue down the box sides making right angled triangle sides.


Glue together the four sections of the box. Note that the circular holes are furthest away from the hole in the box top.


Fold round and complete the box making sure that it is straight and true.


Thread the push rod up through the hole in the box top and glue the middle slider tube to the tab.


Line up the crank with the holes in the side of the box and fit the two remaining axles securing them with a small dot of glue.


Assemble the handle in three steps.


Fit the handle to the axle as shown to complete the Crank/Cam mechanism.


Making the Fish

The wings are made from double thickness card.


Glue the wing push rods to the underside of the wings lining them up as shown.


Thread the wing stub through the side of the fish body and glue the fin end into place to stop it falling out.


Glue the two halves of the fish together with the body top in place as shown.


Assemble the body inner.


Glue the body inner into the fish then fit the completed fish over the end of the main push rod. Secure it with a dot of glue.


Turn the handle so that the cam and cam follower are at their maximum height.


With the wings pointing roughly 45 degrees upwards, glue the end of the wing push rods to the top slider tube. Cut off any excess push rod if necessary.


That completes your Flying Fish model. Turn the handle to bring it to life!

Check out the Flying Fish is animated action on my Instagram feed here This paper animation is based around the Crank/Cam Essential Mechanism and fitted with one of the alternate cams from here. Members can download the model for free, thanks for your support! Non members can join in the fun for $3.75/£2.50

 


The parts are provided in both coloured and un-coloured format. Choose which you would like then print out the parts onto thin card (230gsm is ideal) The coloured sheets are printed front and back. Print out one side, flip it over and return it to the printer to print out the other side.

Score along the dotted and dashed lines and cut out the holes before carefully cutting out the parts.

Some of the parts are made from double thickness card for extra strength. Fold the card over and glue it down. Once the glue is completely dry carefully cut out the parts.

Crank ends:

Cams:

Spacers:

Fins:


Make up the two crank shaft pieces.


Roll round and glue down the axle tubes carefully lining up the edges with the end of the glue area.


Thread the shortest axle onto the two crank ends then glue them to the end of the push rod so that the axle is accurately lined up perpendicular to the push rod.


Glue the crank shaft pieces to the short axle tube. Make sure that it is free to turn.


Glue together the two slider tubes.


Glue the cam follower tube to one of the slider tubes as shown.


Thread the longest axle through the cam follower tube and glue it into position. Glue two of the spacers into position on the top of the slider tube.


Glue the other two spacers to the other slider tube.


Glue the first cam into place.


Glue the second cam to the other side.


Slide the cam follower down the push rod into position. No glue! It must be free to slide up and down.


Slip the other two slider tubes into position.


Make up the two triangular link pieces and glue them to the spacers on the top and bottom slider tube.


Tightly wrap a coin (4 gram, 20mm diameter, a UK penny is perfect!) in a scrap of card.


Glue the coin package to the front of the cam follower to complete the crank/cam assembly.


Making the Box

Fold round and glue down the tabs on the box top and base to make triangular sections.


Fold round and glue down the box sides making right angled triangle sides.


Glue together the four sections of the box. Note that the circular holes are furthest away from the hole in the box top.


Fold round and complete the box making sure that it is straight and true.


Thread the push rod up through the hole in the box top and glue the middle slider tube to the tab.


Line up the crank with the holes in the side of the box and fit the two remaining axles securing them with a small dot of glue.


Assemble the handle in three steps.


Fit the handle to the axle as shown to complete the Crank/Cam mechanism.


Making the Fish

The wings are made from double thickness card.


Glue the wing push rods to the underside of the wings lining them up as shown.


Thread the wing stub through the side of the fish body and glue the fin end into place to stop it falling out.


Glue the two halves of the fish together with the body top in place as shown.


Assemble the body inner.


Glue the body inner into the fish then fit the completed fish over the end of the main push rod. Secure it with a dot of glue.


Turn the handle so that the cam and cam follower are at their maximum height.


With the wings pointing roughly 45 degrees upwards, glue the end of the wing push rods to the top slider tube. Cut off any excess push rod if necessary.


That completes your Flying Fish model. Turn the handle to bring it to life!

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< | >

Keyboard Kat

£2.50

Your rating: None (10 votes)

Keyboard Kat! Turn the handle and the cat tickles the ivories whilst nodding along to the beat! Members and Patrons can download the parts for free at the link. Non-members can join in the fun for £2.50

Click the picture to the left to see the model in animated action on my Instagram feed.

Once you have downloaded the parts, print out the pages onto thin card. (230grm/67lb) are ideal. The colour version is printed on both the front and back of the page. Print out the front of a page, flip it over and return it to the printer then print out the back.

Once the ink is completely dry, score along all the dotted and dashed lines, cut out the holes then carefully cut out the parts.


The base and top are basically the same but the top has this extra hole in it. Fold in the sides to make right angle triangles then glue them down.


Fold in the end tabs on the end pieces to make triangular tubes.


Glue the cam follower spacer to the underside of the top between the two small marks on the top.


Glue the box ends to the box top. Note the alignment and position of the end with the holes, it is important that it is fitted the right way round.


Fold round the box and glue it down.

Glue in the side flaps.


Fold in the small tabs and glue them to the inside wall of the box.


Roll up and glue the four tubes lining up them as accurately as possible with the edge of the glue area.

There are various parts that are double thickness card shown below. Fold them round and glue them down as shown. Once the glue is dry carefully cut out the parts.


The three cam followers are all made the same way.

Fold over the main body and glue it down to make double thickness card.


Fold round the tab at the end to make a small triangle tube


Fold up the stiffener as shown


Glue the stiffener to the cam follower.


A small coin (20mm diameter, 4gm weight) is used as a weight for each of the cam follows. I used UK pennies. Fold a scrap of card tightly round the coin and glue it down as shown.


Glue the coin to the end of the cam follower.

Fold the tab with the triangle piece under the cam follower and glue it down.


The three cam followers completed.


Fit the cams to the square cam shaft. The single lobed cam fits in the centre. The two lobed cams should be at ninety degrees to each other. I didn't glue them so that I could try different cam profiles at a later date. Glue one of the axle tubes into the square tube. Don't fit the other one yet.


Assemble the handle in three steps.


Thread the cam shaft into the box then fit the final axle tube into place on the right side of the picture. No need to glue it, friction will hold it into place.


Thread the three cam followers into the box above the cams and glue them to the box end as shown.


Glue the handle into place. The view from the other end. Turn the hand and the cam followers should move up and down.


Assemble the two arm axles as shown.


Glue a strap to each arm axle.


Fold a body sides round an arm axle and glue it closed. When you pull the strap the arm axle should turn. Make up the other body side in the same way but with the pull strap on the other side of the axle.


Join the two body sides using the body front as show. The pull straps should be at the back of the body on both sides.


Roll the body right round and glue it down.


The arm parts. Note that the left and right arm parts are different, don't mix them up. Shown here are the left arm parts.


Fold found and glue the upper arm. Glue the lower arm to the back tab on the upper arm.


Glue the upper and lower arm together.


Glue the arm cover into position. (This part is the same on both arms.) Make up the other arm in the same way.


Gently open out the hole in the arm with a chop stick or other suitable implement.


Both arms assembled.


Turn the arm axles so that the internal swing arm is horizontal then glue the arm onto the axle so that the forearm is also horizontal.


The black line on the head is not a mouth, it is actually a slot for a strap to fit through!

Thread the final strap through it and glue to the inside of the head.


Assemble the nose and whiskers and glue them into place.


Work your way round the head gluing the front of the sides.


Glue on the ears.


Thread the head strap down through the hole on the body then glue the head to the body.


Assemble the stool.


Glue the stool to the box.


Thread the three straps through the hole on the legs then glue the legs to the body.


Thread the straps down through the hole in the stool and out through the back of the box.


Fitting the straps to the cam followers is the same process for each cam.

Turn the cam until the cam follower is at its maximum height. Pull the strap so that the forearm is horizontal and mark with a pencil where the strap meets the cam follower. Cut off the excess strap approximately 5mm below the mark then crease the strap at the pencil mark. Glue the strap to the cam follower.


Assemble the keyboard as shown.


Fit the keyboard to the box so that the keyboard is under where the arms fall naturally.


With the arms at their lowest point you may need to make small adjustments by gently bending the forearm so that they just touch the keyboard.


Glue the tail to the cat, and glue the name plate across the front of the box to complete the model.


Once the glue is dry, turn the handle to bring the Keyboard Kat to life!

Keyboard Kat! Turn the handle and the cat tickles the ivories whilst nodding along to the beat! Members and Patrons can download the parts for free at the link. Non-members can join in the fun for £2.50

Click the picture to the left to see the model in animated action on my Instagram feed.

Once you have downloaded the parts, print out the pages onto thin card. (230grm/67lb) are ideal. The colour version is printed on both the front and back of the page. Print out the front of a page, flip it over and return it to the printer then print out the back.

Once the ink is completely dry, score along all the dotted and dashed lines, cut out the holes then carefully cut out the parts.


The base and top are basically the same but the top has this extra hole in it. Fold in the sides to make right angle triangles then glue them down.


Fold in the end tabs on the end pieces to make triangular tubes.


Glue the cam follower spacer to the underside of the top between the two small marks on the top.


Glue the box ends to the box top. Note the alignment and position of the end with the holes, it is important that it is fitted the right way round.


Fold round the box and glue it down.

Glue in the side flaps.


Fold in the small tabs and glue them to the inside wall of the box.


Roll up and glue the four tubes lining up them as accurately as possible with the edge of the glue area.

There are various parts that are double thickness card shown below. Fold them round and glue them down as shown. Once the glue is dry carefully cut out the parts.


The three cam followers are all made the same way.

Fold over the main body and glue it down to make double thickness card.


Fold round the tab at the end to make a small triangle tube


Fold up the stiffener as shown


Glue the stiffener to the cam follower.


A small coin (20mm diameter, 4gm weight) is used as a weight for each of the cam follows. I used UK pennies. Fold a scrap of card tightly round the coin and glue it down as shown.


Glue the coin to the end of the cam follower.

Fold the tab with the triangle piece under the cam follower and glue it down.


The three cam followers completed.


Fit the cams to the square cam shaft. The single lobed cam fits in the centre. The two lobed cams should be at ninety degrees to each other. I didn't glue them so that I could try different cam profiles at a later date. Glue one of the axle tubes into the square tube. Don't fit the other one yet.


Assemble the handle in three steps.


Thread the cam shaft into the box then fit the final axle tube into place on the right side of the picture. No need to glue it, friction will hold it into place.


Thread the three cam followers into the box above the cams and glue them to the box end as shown.


Glue the handle into place. The view from the other end. Turn the hand and the cam followers should move up and down.


Assemble the two arm axles as shown.


Glue a strap to each arm axle.


Fold a body sides round an arm axle and glue it closed. When you pull the strap the arm axle should turn. Make up the other body side in the same way but with the pull strap on the other side of the axle.


Join the two body sides using the body front as show. The pull straps should be at the back of the body on both sides.


Roll the body right round and glue it down.


The arm parts. Note that the left and right arm parts are different, don't mix them up. Shown here are the left arm parts.


Fold found and glue the upper arm. Glue the lower arm to the back tab on the upper arm.


Glue the upper and lower arm together.


Glue the arm cover into position. (This part is the same on both arms.) Make up the other arm in the same way.


Gently open out the hole in the arm with a chop stick or other suitable implement.


Both arms assembled.


Turn the arm axles so that the internal swing arm is horizontal then glue the arm onto the axle so that the forearm is also horizontal.


The black line on the head is not a mouth, it is actually a slot for a strap to fit through!

Thread the final strap through it and glue to the inside of the head.


Assemble the nose and whiskers and glue them into place.


Work your way round the head gluing the front of the sides.


Glue on the ears.


Thread the head strap down through the hole on the body then glue the head to the body.


Assemble the stool.


Glue the stool to the box.


Thread the three straps through the hole on the legs then glue the legs to the body.


Thread the straps down through the hole in the stool and out through the back of the box.


Fitting the straps to the cam followers is the same process for each cam.

Turn the cam until the cam follower is at its maximum height. Pull the strap so that the forearm is horizontal and mark with a pencil where the strap meets the cam follower. Cut off the excess strap approximately 5mm below the mark then crease the strap at the pencil mark. Glue the strap to the cam follower.


Assemble the keyboard as shown.


Fit the keyboard to the box so that the keyboard is under where the arms fall naturally.


With the arms at their lowest point you may need to make small adjustments by gently bending the forearm so that they just touch the keyboard.


Glue the tail to the cat, and glue the name plate across the front of the box to complete the model.


Once the glue is dry, turn the handle to bring the Keyboard Kat to life!

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< | >

Hopping Reindeer

£2.50

Your rating: None (5 votes)

A mash up model for the festive season. I've taken the Reindeer and Tree from here and the Three Cam and Gear Box from here and made this paper automata. In a call back to one of my first ever designs I've called it the Hopping Reindeer.


All the parts that you need are in the downloadable file. Members can download for free, thanks for your support! Non members can download the parts at the link for £2.50

Print out the parts onto thin card (230gsm /67lb)

Score along the dotted and dashed lines then cut out the parts. The instructions are basically the same as the original models with a few small changes. Check out the reindeer and tree instructions here. The instructions for the base are here but check out the instructions below for some minor changes to the original.


Here's the completed cam shaft, note that the third cam now has three lobes.


Here's the cam shaft and gear fitted into place.


The slightly redesigned cam followers now have a triangular end to more closely follow the cams.


With the box upside down the cam fits in here.


The push rod is slightly long and fits to the cam follower like this.


All three cam followers fitted into place.


Make up three reindeer.


Glue them to the ends of the pushrods.


Turn the handle and delight at the Hopping Reindeer! Festive Felicitations one and all!

A mash up model for the festive season. I've taken the Reindeer and Tree from here and the Three Cam and Gear Box from here and made this paper automata. In a call back to one of my first ever designs I've called it the Hopping Reindeer.


All the parts that you need are in the downloadable file. Members can download for free, thanks for your support! Non members can download the parts at the link for £2.50

Print out the parts onto thin card (230gsm /67lb)

Score along the dotted and dashed lines then cut out the parts. The instructions are basically the same as the original models with a few small changes. Check out the reindeer and tree instructions here. The instructions for the base are here but check out the instructions below for some minor changes to the original.


Here's the completed cam shaft, note that the third cam now has three lobes.


Here's the cam shaft and gear fitted into place.


The slightly redesigned cam followers now have a triangular end to more closely follow the cams.


With the box upside down the cam fits in here.


The push rod is slightly long and fits to the cam follower like this.


All three cam followers fitted into place.


Make up three reindeer.


Glue them to the ends of the pushrods.


Turn the handle and delight at the Hopping Reindeer! Festive Felicitations one and all!

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< | >

Crank Mechanism for Caterpillar Model

Your rating: None (4 votes)

I've finalised the layout for the mechanims that will drive the caterpillar model. There are a few small changes that I have made to the original design including mounting the slider inside the box and adding windows to the to side of the box so that the bell cranks are visible.

Just the caterpillar to do!

Double crank mechanism for paper caterpillar. #papercraft #automata #crank #mechanism

A video posted by Rob Ives (@robivescom) on

I've finalised the layout for the mechanims that will drive the caterpillar model. There are a few small changes that I have made to the original design including mounting the slider inside the box and adding windows to the to side of the box so that the bell cranks are visible.

Just the caterpillar to do!

Double crank mechanism for paper caterpillar. #papercraft #automata #crank #mechanism

A video posted by Rob Ives (@robivescom) on

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< | >

Worm Gear and Cam Prototyping

Your rating: None (4 votes)

Cams are really useful in automata. One crinkly surfaced cam can be used to describe a quite intricate set of movements. Add a couple more cams to the same cam shaft and it is possible to make a automata with a quite complex set of movements.

The limitation is that all of the movement has to fit into a single rotation of the cam. For a complex sequence this means that the viewer has either to turn the handle really slowly or the cam needs to be geared down. If you are a regular reader on the blog you will know that I have been experiment quite a bit with gears with some degree of success.

If I wanted to make a story that took ten turns of the handle to perform I could use some of the gear designs I already have but for a 10:1 reduction or greater that would need either a multiple stage gear box or a really large output gear.

Enter the worm gear. In a worm gear mechanism one turn of the handle advances the gear by a single tooth of the output gear so even with quite small gears large speed reductions are possible. I made a worm gear a while ago but this is the first time I have tried it since I switched to using circular axles.

The output gear is eleven teeth. The short section of worm is turned via a crank handle resulting in the cam shaft turning round very slowly, perfect for a more complex automata.

I've fitted a couple of cams to the cam shaft and mounted the whole into a box. It works okay by does need a bit of tweaking with dimensions to try and smooth out the movement. In this version the handle turns roughly 3/4 turn with the gear moving smoothly then the gear stops for the next quarter turn. I'm hoping that increasing the gear size slightly should overcome that issue. It should be a useful little mechanism once it is sorted!

Cams are really useful in automata. One crinkly surfaced cam can be used to describe a quite intricate set of movements. Add a couple more cams to the same cam shaft and it is possible to make a automata with a quite complex set of movements.

The limitation is that all of the movement has to fit into a single rotation of the cam. For a complex sequence this means that the viewer has either to turn the handle really slowly or the cam needs to be geared down. If you are a regular reader on the blog you will know that I have been experiment quite a bit with gears with some degree of success.

If I wanted to make a story that took ten turns of the handle to perform I could use some of the gear designs I already have but for a 10:1 reduction or greater that would need either a multiple stage gear box or a really large output gear.

Enter the worm gear. In a worm gear mechanism one turn of the handle advances the gear by a single tooth of the output gear so even with quite small gears large speed reductions are possible. I made a worm gear a while ago but this is the first time I have tried it since I switched to using circular axles.

The output gear is eleven teeth. The short section of worm is turned via a crank handle resulting in the cam shaft turning round very slowly, perfect for a more complex automata.

I've fitted a couple of cams to the cam shaft and mounted the whole into a box. It works okay by does need a bit of tweaking with dimensions to try and smooth out the movement. In this version the handle turns roughly 3/4 turn with the gear moving smoothly then the gear stops for the next quarter turn. I'm hoping that increasing the gear size slightly should overcome that issue. It should be a useful little mechanism once it is sorted!

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< | >

Rise of the Mammals, Nearly Done

Your rating: None (7 votes)

Rise of the Mammals. I've finished the assembly photographs for this model. Just the instructions to write. I keep you going here's a picture and an Instagram animation showing the automata in action!

Rise of the mammals. #papercraft #papertoy #automata #mechanism #gear #dinosaur #mouse

A video posted by Rob Ives (@robivescom) on

Rise of the Mammals. I've finished the assembly photographs for this model. Just the instructions to write. I keep you going here's a picture and an Instagram animation showing the automata in action!

Rise of the mammals. #papercraft #papertoy #automata #mechanism #gear #dinosaur #mouse

A video posted by Rob Ives (@robivescom) on

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< | >

Flying Santa

£2.50

Your rating: None (5 votes)

Just in time for Christmas! Turn the handle on the Flying Santa and his arms flap as he bobs and swoops through the frosty winter air. Three flaps for each bob. Ho ho ho!

Members can download the parts for this model for free at the link. Thanks for signing up! Non-members can join in the fun for £2.50.


Print the parts out onto thin card. 230 gsm / 67lb. The coloured version of the kit is printed on both sides of the sheet. Print one side, flip the card over then print the other side on the back.

Once the ink is completely dry, score along all the dotted and dashed lines and cut out the holes before carefully cutting out the pieces.


Notice that the nose and moustache are cut round the edges and lifted out a little to give a 3D effect.

Roll the head round and glue it down.


Curve the hat into a cone and thread it up through the head. Glue the bobble into place.


Glue the small tab to the back of the head.


Fold over and glue down the arms and legs to make double thickness card.


Fold over and glue together the push rod ends and cams to make double thickness card.


Cut them out once the glue is dry


Glue the arm push rod to the arm as shown.


Fold up the body inner.


Glue together the three parts of the body.

Fit the body inner into the body.


Thread the arm push rods and arms through the holes in the side of the body and glue them to the tab. Make sure that the arms are free to flap up and down.


Glue the tab on the back of the head to the grey area on the back of the body.


Assemble the leg support parts and glue the legs into position.


Glue the legs into the body.


Roll up and make the various tubes lining up their edges with the arrow points.


Assemble the push rod. Glue the push rod end into place with the shortest tube threaded into position.


Assemble the two crank pieces.


Thread the two cams onto the crank pieces and glue them down.


Glue the crank pieces to the centre axle. Make sure that they are lined up.


Fit the two axle tubes into place.


Glue together the two parts of the cam follower. Thread the cam follower tube into place and glue it down.


Make up the four spaces by folding in half and gluing down the small rectangles making four double thickness squares.


Thread the cam follower down onto the push rod. Don't glue it! It must be free to move up and down. Glue two spacers into place on the end of the slider tube as shown.


Slide the other two slider tubes into place. Glue the two remaining spacer pieces onto the second slider tube as shown.


Assemble the link pieces and use them to join together the two spacer pieces on each side. Make sure no glue gets onto the centre slider tube.


Assemble the box top and box base by make triangle section tubes.


Assemble the two box sides by making right angle triangle tubes.


Join the four box pieces together. Use the picture to ensure they are in the correct order.


Thread the push rod assembly up through the box top and glue the centre slider tube to the box top tab.

Fit the axles through the holes in the box sides.


Fold up and complete the box keeping everything as square as possible.


Assemble the handle in three steps as shown.


Glue the handle into place. Notice that the cam follower assembly is at the front and the handle is on the right.


Tightly fold up a couple pennies (4 grams each 20mm diameter) into an off-cut of card.


Glue the coin bundle to the front of the cam follower.


Thread Santa down onto the top of the push rod. He should be facing towards the front where the cam follower and coins are.

Glue the ends of the arm push rods to the top slider tube.


That should do it! Turn the handle and Santa will flap his arms three times for each time he swoops. Ho ho ho!

 

Just in time for Christmas! Turn the handle on the Flying Santa and his arms flap as he bobs and swoops through the frosty winter air. Three flaps for each bob. Ho ho ho!

Members can download the parts for this model for free at the link. Thanks for signing up! Non-members can join in the fun for £2.50.


Print the parts out onto thin card. 230 gsm / 67lb. The coloured version of the kit is printed on both sides of the sheet. Print one side, flip the card over then print the other side on the back.

Once the ink is completely dry, score along all the dotted and dashed lines and cut out the holes before carefully cutting out the pieces.


Notice that the nose and moustache are cut round the edges and lifted out a little to give a 3D effect.

Roll the head round and glue it down.


Curve the hat into a cone and thread it up through the head. Glue the bobble into place.


Glue the small tab to the back of the head.


Fold over and glue down the arms and legs to make double thickness card.


Fold over and glue together the push rod ends and cams to make double thickness card.


Cut them out once the glue is dry


Glue the arm push rod to the arm as shown.


Fold up the body inner.


Glue together the three parts of the body.

Fit the body inner into the body.


Thread the arm push rods and arms through the holes in the side of the body and glue them to the tab. Make sure that the arms are free to flap up and down.


Glue the tab on the back of the head to the grey area on the back of the body.


Assemble the leg support parts and glue the legs into position.


Glue the legs into the body.


Roll up and make the various tubes lining up their edges with the arrow points.


Assemble the push rod. Glue the push rod end into place with the shortest tube threaded into position.


Assemble the two crank pieces.


Thread the two cams onto the crank pieces and glue them down.


Glue the crank pieces to the centre axle. Make sure that they are lined up.


Fit the two axle tubes into place.


Glue together the two parts of the cam follower. Thread the cam follower tube into place and glue it down.


Make up the four spaces by folding in half and gluing down the small rectangles making four double thickness squares.


Thread the cam follower down onto the push rod. Don't glue it! It must be free to move up and down. Glue two spacers into place on the end of the slider tube as shown.


Slide the other two slider tubes into place. Glue the two remaining spacer pieces onto the second slider tube as shown.


Assemble the link pieces and use them to join together the two spacer pieces on each side. Make sure no glue gets onto the centre slider tube.


Assemble the box top and box base by make triangle section tubes.


Assemble the two box sides by making right angle triangle tubes.


Join the four box pieces together. Use the picture to ensure they are in the correct order.


Thread the push rod assembly up through the box top and glue the centre slider tube to the box top tab.

Fit the axles through the holes in the box sides.


Fold up and complete the box keeping everything as square as possible.


Assemble the handle in three steps as shown.


Glue the handle into place. Notice that the cam follower assembly is at the front and the handle is on the right.


Tightly fold up a couple pennies (4 grams each 20mm diameter) into an off-cut of card.


Glue the coin bundle to the front of the cam follower.


Thread Santa down onto the top of the push rod. He should be facing towards the front where the cam follower and coins are.

Glue the ends of the arm push rods to the top slider tube.


That should do it! Turn the handle and Santa will flap his arms three times for each time he swoops. Ho ho ho!

 

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Shark Attack

£2.50

Your rating: None (10 votes)

Shark Attack!

Turn the handle and the sharks circle menacing around the boat. Duuh duh! Duuh duh!

This model uses a variant of the mesh gear essential mechanism which I will shortly be releasing as a stand alone project.

Paid subscribers to robives.com can download the model for free at the link, thanks for your support! Non-members can download the parts file for £2.50


The model comes in both coloured and non-coloured versions. Print out the one you choose onto thin card. (230gsm/67lb is ideal) Score along the dotted and dashed lines and cut out the holes before carefully cutting out the pieces.


Fold over the gears to make double thickness card and glue them down.


Once the glue is dry carefully cut them out.


Roll up the three axle tubes carefully lining up the edges with the arrows as shown.


Fit the pinion gear into the pinion tube lining it up with the grey line and gluing it into place with the tabs.

Fit the 8mm tube into the square tube lining it up between the two grey lines.


Fit the gear shaft into the large gear and thread in the 9mm axle tube so that it lines up at the bottom face of the gear.


Fold round and glue the base piece leaving the ends unglued. Fit the base spacer into position. The end of a chop stick can be handy for reaching inside the base when gluing the tabs on the spacer down.


Glue closed to complete the base.


Fold up and glue the box front and box back. Note that the long triangle tube is a right angled triangle.


Crease the score lines on the box sides in preparation for assembly.

Note the four grey alignment arrows, arrowed in the picture.


Glue the two sides to the base between the alignment arrows.


With the two sides glued into place, glue and push home the 7mm tube.


Fit the large gear over the 7mm tube. It should be free to turn smoothly.


Glue the box front to one of the box sides. Make sure you glue it to one of the edges closest to the rectangular holes in the side pieces.


Join the box front to the other box side.


Fit the axle support between the two box sides making sure that the circular hole is facing towards the front of the box.


Thread the pinion gear into place between the box front and the axle support.


Glue the box back into place.


Thread the box top down over the vertical axle tubes and glue the top into place.


Assemble the handle in three steps as shown.


Glue the handle to the pinion shaft.

Once the glue is dry turning the handle should turn the outer of the two vertical shafts. The centre vertical shaft should remain stationary.


Glue together the rotating disk and tube.


Make up the shark fins from double thickness card. Once the glue has dried carefully cut them out.


Glue the fins to the disk. The wake pattern on the disk should be behind the fin.


Fit the rotating disk to the outer vertical tube. Turn the handle and test that the disk turns properly.


Assemble the boat stand and boat stand inner.


Fit the boat stand to the inner vertical tube.


Assemble the two parts of the boat.


Fit the boat onto the boat stand, you won't need to glue it down.


Assemble the boater man from double thickness card.


Glue him into the back of the boat to complete the model.

Turn the handle to see the sharks circle menacingly round the boat!

Shark Attack!

Turn the handle and the sharks circle menacing around the boat. Duuh duh! Duuh duh!

This model uses a variant of the mesh gear essential mechanism which I will shortly be releasing as a stand alone project.

Paid subscribers to robives.com can download the model for free at the link, thanks for your support! Non-members can download the parts file for £2.50


The model comes in both coloured and non-coloured versions. Print out the one you choose onto thin card. (230gsm/67lb is ideal) Score along the dotted and dashed lines and cut out the holes before carefully cutting out the pieces.


Fold over the gears to make double thickness card and glue them down.


Once the glue is dry carefully cut them out.


Roll up the three axle tubes carefully lining up the edges with the arrows as shown.


Fit the pinion gear into the pinion tube lining it up with the grey line and gluing it into place with the tabs.

Fit the 8mm tube into the square tube lining it up between the two grey lines.


Fit the gear shaft into the large gear and thread in the 9mm axle tube so that it lines up at the bottom face of the gear.


Fold round and glue the base piece leaving the ends unglued. Fit the base spacer into position. The end of a chop stick can be handy for reaching inside the base when gluing the tabs on the spacer down.


Glue closed to complete the base.


Fold up and glue the box front and box back. Note that the long triangle tube is a right angled triangle.


Crease the score lines on the box sides in preparation for assembly.

Note the four grey alignment arrows, arrowed in the picture.


Glue the two sides to the base between the alignment arrows.


With the two sides glued into place, glue and push home the 7mm tube.


Fit the large gear over the 7mm tube. It should be free to turn smoothly.


Glue the box front to one of the box sides. Make sure you glue it to one of the edges closest to the rectangular holes in the side pieces.


Join the box front to the other box side.


Fit the axle support between the two box sides making sure that the circular hole is facing towards the front of the box.


Thread the pinion gear into place between the box front and the axle support.


Glue the box back into place.


Thread the box top down over the vertical axle tubes and glue the top into place.


Assemble the handle in three steps as shown.


Glue the handle to the pinion shaft.

Once the glue is dry turning the handle should turn the outer of the two vertical shafts. The centre vertical shaft should remain stationary.


Glue together the rotating disk and tube.


Make up the shark fins from double thickness card. Once the glue has dried carefully cut them out.


Glue the fins to the disk. The wake pattern on the disk should be behind the fin.


Fit the rotating disk to the outer vertical tube. Turn the handle and test that the disk turns properly.


Assemble the boat stand and boat stand inner.


Fit the boat stand to the inner vertical tube.


Assemble the two parts of the boat.


Fit the boat onto the boat stand, you won't need to glue it down.


Assemble the boater man from double thickness card.


Glue him into the back of the boat to complete the model.

Turn the handle to see the sharks circle menacingly round the boat!

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Shark Attack, Final Prototype

Your rating: None (4 votes)

I've completed the working prototype of my Shark Attack model. You can see it in animated action by clicking in the picture below.

Next step is to finish the page layout of parts and add colour. I'll be releasing this as an animated paper kit, (Shark Attack) and as an Essential Mechanism project.


Inside, I've moved things around a little since the early prototypes. The large gear is now at the bottom of the box and now has twenty three teeth. Both gears are twenty per cent smaller than the original design. The blue bar across the width of the box holds the end of the small gear's axle.


Everything fits neatly into the box and with the new layout you can now see the large gear more clearly.

Looking good so far!

I've completed the working prototype of my Shark Attack model. You can see it in animated action by clicking in the picture below.

Next step is to finish the page layout of parts and add colour. I'll be releasing this as an animated paper kit, (Shark Attack) and as an Essential Mechanism project.


Inside, I've moved things around a little since the early prototypes. The large gear is now at the bottom of the box and now has twenty three teeth. Both gears are twenty per cent smaller than the original design. The blue bar across the width of the box holds the end of the small gear's axle.


Everything fits neatly into the box and with the new layout you can now see the large gear more clearly.

Looking good so far!

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