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dinosaur

Poseable Triceratops

£2.50

Your rating: None (8 votes)

A cute poseable Triceratops to download and make. This papercraft project has movable legs and a poseable head. The neck joint is particularly interesting, featuring, as it does, a two axis two link joint for maximum head flexibility!

Members and patrons can download this paper dinosaur for free from the appropriate place - thanks for your support! Non-members can join in the fun for £2.50.


Download the parts file and print out the pages onto thin card (230gsm / 67lb) Note that there are three different colour variants and an uncoloured version for you to choose from. The model uses four sheets of card, the fifth page needs to be printed onto the back of the forth sheet. Flip sheet four over and return it to the printer then print the back of sheet four.

Score along the dotted & dashed lines and cut the solid black lines before carefully cutting out the pieces.


Some of the parts in the model are made from double thickness card. This gives them extra stiffness and makes it easy to add colour to both sides of a piece.

Start by making the legs from double thickness card. Lift out the two small tabs so that they don't get glued down then fold over the card and glue it down to make double thickness.


Once the glue is dry carefully cut out the legs.


Make the horns from double thickness card, make sure that you don't glue the tabs at the base of the horns together.


Fold over the four large rectangular flaps on neck piece and glue them down to make double thickness card.


Once the glue is dry, cut out the holes and trim the long tabs to the profile of the neck pieces.


Roll the neck round and glue it as shown.


Each corner of the neck is assembled in the same way. Thread the slotted washer up through the hole and flatten the tabs out.


Glue a washer onto the two tabs. Don't get glue on the neck itself, the washer must be free to turn.


Glue a second washer onto the other side of the slotted washer. Again, making sure that the circle is free to turn.


Repeat this process on all four ends.


The two axles are assembled the same way as each other.

Roll up and glue down the axle tube lining up the end of the tube with the points of the arrows as accurately as possible


Start by lining up the edge of the outer tube with the arrow points as show. Roll it round the axle and glue it down on itself. Make sure no glue gets on the axle, The axle outer is a tight fit round the axle but should be free to move. Friction holds the outer axle tube into position.


Glue the the two end stops into position. These parts are glued to the axle - they don't move, they are there to keep the axle outer in place.


Dot a blob of glue into the centre of the two inner washers at one end of the neck and glue the neck to the outer axle.


Repeat the same at the other end. Once the glue is dry the the axles should be free to rotate in two axis.


Fold over and glue down the neck link pieces making double thickness card with a single thickness tab.


Glue the two neck links to one end of the neck as shown. Make sure that they are square with each other by placing them on a flat surface as in the picture.


Curve round and make the head top.


Glue in the two darts on the frill then glue the frill to the head.


Make the lower jaw.


Glue the lower jaw into the head.


The free end of the neck fits into the head with the axle axis running top of bottom.

Apply glue to the neck axle tabs tabs and thread the piece into the head. Hold the head into position as the glue dries.


There are two small alignment tabs on the body sides. Fold them over and glue them down.


Thread the two rear legs into position and lock them into place with a cover piece. The leg should be free to swing back and forth.


Fold round and glue down the tab on the body inner to make a triangular tube. This gives rigidity to the body inner.


Glue the body inner into place between the small arrow on the alignment tab and the small arrow at the top of the body. The cut-out in the body inner will allow the legs to move freely.


Fit the other body side to the body inner.


Fit the body top into position starting at the tail end.

Start by lining up the tabs on the body top with the tabs on the body sides so that they touch each other. Glue the body top tabs into place and glue the tail ends together.


Work your way along the body gluing down a few tabs at a time.


Fit the front legs into place with the tabs and cover pieces so that the are free to move.


Glue the tabs on the neck links to the front edge of the body


Glue on the three horns and the eyes to complete the model!


The finished triceratops ready to grace any desktop or mantelpiece!

A cute poseable Triceratops to download and make. This papercraft project has movable legs and a poseable head. The neck joint is particularly interesting, featuring, as it does, a two axis two link joint for maximum head flexibility!

Members and patrons can download this paper dinosaur for free from the appropriate place - thanks for your support! Non-members can join in the fun for £2.50.


Download the parts file and print out the pages onto thin card (230gsm / 67lb) Note that there are three different colour variants and an uncoloured version for you to choose from. The model uses four sheets of card, the fifth page needs to be printed onto the back of the forth sheet. Flip sheet four over and return it to the printer then print the back of sheet four.

Score along the dotted & dashed lines and cut the solid black lines before carefully cutting out the pieces.


Some of the parts in the model are made from double thickness card. This gives them extra stiffness and makes it easy to add colour to both sides of a piece.

Start by making the legs from double thickness card. Lift out the two small tabs so that they don't get glued down then fold over the card and glue it down to make double thickness.


Once the glue is dry carefully cut out the legs.


Make the horns from double thickness card, make sure that you don't glue the tabs at the base of the horns together.


Fold over the four large rectangular flaps on neck piece and glue them down to make double thickness card.


Once the glue is dry, cut out the holes and trim the long tabs to the profile of the neck pieces.


Roll the neck round and glue it as shown.


Each corner of the neck is assembled in the same way. Thread the slotted washer up through the hole and flatten the tabs out.


Glue a washer onto the two tabs. Don't get glue on the neck itself, the washer must be free to turn.


Glue a second washer onto the other side of the slotted washer. Again, making sure that the circle is free to turn.


Repeat this process on all four ends.


The two axles are assembled the same way as each other.

Roll up and glue down the axle tube lining up the end of the tube with the points of the arrows as accurately as possible


Start by lining up the edge of the outer tube with the arrow points as show. Roll it round the axle and glue it down on itself. Make sure no glue gets on the axle, The axle outer is a tight fit round the axle but should be free to move. Friction holds the outer axle tube into position.


Glue the the two end stops into position. These parts are glued to the axle - they don't move, they are there to keep the axle outer in place.


Dot a blob of glue into the centre of the two inner washers at one end of the neck and glue the neck to the outer axle.


Repeat the same at the other end. Once the glue is dry the the axles should be free to rotate in two axis.


Fold over and glue down the neck link pieces making double thickness card with a single thickness tab.


Glue the two neck links to one end of the neck as shown. Make sure that they are square with each other by placing them on a flat surface as in the picture.


Curve round and make the head top.


Glue in the two darts on the frill then glue the frill to the head.


Make the lower jaw.


Glue the lower jaw into the head.


The free end of the neck fits into the head with the axle axis running top of bottom.

Apply glue to the neck axle tabs tabs and thread the piece into the head. Hold the head into position as the glue dries.


There are two small alignment tabs on the body sides. Fold them over and glue them down.


Thread the two rear legs into position and lock them into place with a cover piece. The leg should be free to swing back and forth.


Fold round and glue down the tab on the body inner to make a triangular tube. This gives rigidity to the body inner.


Glue the body inner into place between the small arrow on the alignment tab and the small arrow at the top of the body. The cut-out in the body inner will allow the legs to move freely.


Fit the other body side to the body inner.


Fit the body top into position starting at the tail end.

Start by lining up the tabs on the body top with the tabs on the body sides so that they touch each other. Glue the body top tabs into place and glue the tail ends together.


Work your way along the body gluing down a few tabs at a time.


Fit the front legs into place with the tabs and cover pieces so that the are free to move.


Glue the tabs on the neck links to the front edge of the body


Glue on the three horns and the eyes to complete the model!


The finished triceratops ready to grace any desktop or mantelpiece!

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Triceratops - Neck Joint Revisited

Your rating: None (3 votes)

While I was working on the final layout of the Triceratops model the final prototype was sitting on the desk next to me. I kept picking it up and playing with it, looking at how the various joints worked. In the end I just wasn't satisfied with how the head moved. It just didn't have enough range of movement. I stopped the layout/colour process and went back to the prototype to see how it could be improved.

Here's what I came up with. Click on the image here to see an Instagram video of the improved neck joint in action.


The original model had the neck fixed to the body then a two axis joint inside the head . The new version has a second two axis joint inside the body. It makes the head much more flexible and, I think, it is a big improvement to the final model. Here is the new two link, two axis neck piece.

...and here it is fitted into the body.


The new joint gives a much wider range of movement and makes the Triceratops far more poseable.

So, part layouts to redo then the colour. Won't be long now.

While I was working on the final layout of the Triceratops model the final prototype was sitting on the desk next to me. I kept picking it up and playing with it, looking at how the various joints worked. In the end I just wasn't satisfied with how the head moved. It just didn't have enough range of movement. I stopped the layout/colour process and went back to the prototype to see how it could be improved.

Here's what I came up with. Click on the image here to see an Instagram video of the improved neck joint in action.


The original model had the neck fixed to the body then a two axis joint inside the head . The new version has a second two axis joint inside the body. It makes the head much more flexible and, I think, it is a big improvement to the final model. Here is the new two link, two axis neck piece.

...and here it is fitted into the body.


The new joint gives a much wider range of movement and makes the Triceratops far more poseable.

So, part layouts to redo then the colour. Won't be long now.

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Triceratops - Body Design

Your rating: None (4 votes)

Back to the Triceratops! With the aid of a small plastic reference model I've been working on the shape of the body. I've put together two sides from a sketched out shape.


The three spacers are all squares - different size squares obviously. They hold the body into roughly the right profile. I'll work on a top piece after I've put together the digital version.


With the body profile roughed out it's time to fit the head. The neck glues onto the body allowing the head to be poseable. I'll probably make the legs movable as well though these ones in the prototype are just glued on.

Next step will be to scan the body parts and put together a digital version of the body. I'm planning on scaling the body up in size by 10% to get the overall proportions looking right. Looking good so far!

Back to the Triceratops! With the aid of a small plastic reference model I've been working on the shape of the body. I've put together two sides from a sketched out shape.


The three spacers are all squares - different size squares obviously. They hold the body into roughly the right profile. I'll work on a top piece after I've put together the digital version.


With the body profile roughed out it's time to fit the head. The neck glues onto the body allowing the head to be poseable. I'll probably make the legs movable as well though these ones in the prototype are just glued on.

Next step will be to scan the body parts and put together a digital version of the body. I'm planning on scaling the body up in size by 10% to get the overall proportions looking right. Looking good so far!

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Triceratops - Neck Joint Stop Motion

Your rating: None (3 votes)

I've remade the triceratops head 141% larger than before. The neck joint now fits perfectly inside and the head is a better size overall. Next step will be to rough out the body parts at a suitable size and start joining everything together.


I made a quick stop-motion video showing how the neck joint moves. I've uploaded the video to Instagram & Facebook but thought it was probably too short for YouTube so I've tried embeding the actual video file here. You may remember that I tried it embed a video a couple of years back with mixed results. I'm hoping that browsers have got better at complying with HTML standards over the years.

Please can you let me know if you can see the video below. If you can't see the embedded video you can view the original Instagram video by clicking on this link.

I've remade the triceratops head 141% larger than before. The neck joint now fits perfectly inside and the head is a better size overall. Next step will be to rough out the body parts at a suitable size and start joining everything together.


I made a quick stop-motion video showing how the neck joint moves. I've uploaded the video to Instagram & Facebook but thought it was probably too short for YouTube so I've tried embeding the actual video file here. You may remember that I tried it embed a video a couple of years back with mixed results. I'm hoping that browsers have got better at complying with HTML standards over the years.

Please can you let me know if you can see the video below. If you can't see the embedded video you can view the original Instagram video by clicking on this link.

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Poseable Triceratops Early Stage Prototype

Your rating: None (4 votes)

I'm working on a poseable triceratops starting with the head. Sometimes things go together smoothly, everything fits together like a charm and the first draft looks close to perfect. This was not one of those time. I must have tried at least ten version before I got to a version I am happy with. Sheesh.

Anyway - I'm pleased with the result even though it has been a rather long, and at times, frustrating day.

I've got a poseable two axis neck joint worked out so next stage will be designing the body and fitting the head into place.

I'm working on a poseable triceratops starting with the head. Sometimes things go together smoothly, everything fits together like a charm and the first draft looks close to perfect. This was not one of those time. I must have tried at least ten version before I got to a version I am happy with. Sheesh.

Anyway - I'm pleased with the result even though it has been a rather long, and at times, frustrating day.

I've got a poseable two axis neck joint worked out so next stage will be designing the body and fitting the head into place.

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Rise of the Mammals, Nearly Done

Your rating: None (7 votes)

Rise of the Mammals. I've finished the assembly photographs for this model. Just the instructions to write. I keep you going here's a picture and an Instagram animation showing the automata in action!

Rise of the mammals. #papercraft #papertoy #automata #mechanism #gear #dinosaur #mouse

A video posted by Rob Ives (@robivescom) on

Rise of the Mammals. I've finished the assembly photographs for this model. Just the instructions to write. I keep you going here's a picture and an Instagram animation showing the automata in action!

Rise of the mammals. #papercraft #papertoy #automata #mechanism #gear #dinosaur #mouse

A video posted by Rob Ives (@robivescom) on

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Dinosaur Downloads

Your rating: None (3 votes)

New subscriber Jackz sent a comment telling me about how he was taking the Eoraptor model into school for another dinosaur enthusiast student to build with their teacher.

I thought I'd take this moment to post links to the other prehistoric animal related projects that they/you might like to try.

I hope it is useful!


Pterosaur

Turn the crank and the pterosaur flaps his wings and flys.

Triceratops

A quick and easy model to print out and make.

Apatosaurus

Sauropod with flexible head and tail.

T Rex Cam

Program the movements of the T.Rex with interchangeable cams.

Nessie

Is the Lock Ness Monster real, is she, in fact, a plesiosaur? Make the model and find out!

T. Rex

Poseable T.Rex in both mother and child format.

T. Rex Zine

Print out and make this fact fill Zine. Find out all about T. Rexes.

Stegasaurus

A quick and easy to make Stegasaurus. Download and make for free on the Brother International website

New subscriber Jackz sent a comment telling me about how he was taking the Eoraptor model into school for another dinosaur enthusiast student to build with their teacher.

I thought I'd take this moment to post links to the other prehistoric animal related projects that they/you might like to try.

I hope it is useful!


Pterosaur

Turn the crank and the pterosaur flaps his wings and flys.

Triceratops

A quick and easy model to print out and make.

Apatosaurus

Sauropod with flexible head and tail.

T Rex Cam

Program the movements of the T.Rex with interchangeable cams.

Nessie

Is the Lock Ness Monster real, is she, in fact, a plesiosaur? Make the model and find out!

T. Rex

Poseable T.Rex in both mother and child format.

T. Rex Zine

Print out and make this fact fill Zine. Find out all about T. Rexes.

Stegasaurus

A quick and easy to make Stegasaurus. Download and make for free on the Brother International website

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Dinosaur Mash up by Mr Cool

Your rating: None (2 votes)

The ever productive Mr Cool has been at it again! He's taken the static dinosaur models and made this super fun moving model. I love the way the dinosaurs are built so they curve round slightly. Nice work Coolio.

The ever productive Mr Cool has been at it again! He's taken the static dinosaur models and made this super fun moving model. I love the way the dinosaurs are built so they curve round slightly. Nice work Coolio.

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Dino

£2.50

Your rating: None (7 votes)

A paper dinosaur to print out and make.

Members can download the parts for free at the link, thanks for signing up! Non-members can join in the fun for £2.50. There are three versions in the download, two coloured and one line only version for you to print out on your choice of coloured or patterned card. Print out the dinosaur onto thin card (210gsm / 67lb) Score along the dotted and dashed lines and carefully cut out the parts.


Fold round and glue down the bottom tab of the centre piece.


Note these two marks on the body top...


Glue the centre piece to the body top between the two marks.


Starting from the end of the neck (arrowed), glue the two sides into place.


Work your way right down to the tail end gluing the tabs down two or three at a time.


Glue the two tail parts together using the tabs.


Using the small arrows for alignment, glue the body front into place.


The legs and feet are made from double thickness card. Fold the pieces over and glue them together. Once the glue has dried carefully cut out the pieces.

Glue the legs to the feet.


Glue the legs to the body on the grey areas.


Assemble the head then glue it to the top tab. Make up the eyes from double thickness card and glue them into place.


The arms are also double thickness. Once you have made them and cut them out, shape them gently for a realistic pose then glue them into place.


The paper dinosaur could be a good starting point to design your own animated paper character!

A paper dinosaur to print out and make.

Members can download the parts for free at the link, thanks for signing up! Non-members can join in the fun for £2.50. There are three versions in the download, two coloured and one line only version for you to print out on your choice of coloured or patterned card. Print out the dinosaur onto thin card (210gsm / 67lb) Score along the dotted and dashed lines and carefully cut out the parts.


Fold round and glue down the bottom tab of the centre piece.


Note these two marks on the body top...


Glue the centre piece to the body top between the two marks.


Starting from the end of the neck (arrowed), glue the two sides into place.


Work your way right down to the tail end gluing the tabs down two or three at a time.


Glue the two tail parts together using the tabs.


Using the small arrows for alignment, glue the body front into place.


The legs and feet are made from double thickness card. Fold the pieces over and glue them together. Once the glue has dried carefully cut out the pieces.

Glue the legs to the feet.


Glue the legs to the body on the grey areas.


Assemble the head then glue it to the top tab. Make up the eyes from double thickness card and glue them into place.


The arms are also double thickness. Once you have made them and cut them out, shape them gently for a realistic pose then glue them into place.


The paper dinosaur could be a good starting point to design your own animated paper character!

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Ski Rex

£2.50

Your rating: None (5 votes)

 

Turn the handle on the Ski Rex and watch our prehistoric friend indulge in a bit of cross country skiing!
This model is actually a mash-up of the double crank box model and the pose-able T. Rex with added skis poles and a bit of colour! I've put all the parts into one file in both coloured and uncoloured form. If you are a member you can download the parts for free at the link. Non-members can download the parts for £2.50

Let's get started!

Print out the pages onto thin card. (230 micron / 67lb) Score along the dotted and dashed lines then cut out the holes before carefully cutting out the parts. There are six sheets in this model.


Start by making the T. Rex

Glue together the four parts that make the body.


Assemble the head upper, gluing the head inners into place (Deep red in the picture) make sure the tabs on the head inners are folded inwards as shown.


Glue together the tongue support.


Glue the tongue support into the assembled lower jaw.

Curve the tongue round and glue it to the tongue support.


The arms and legs are double thickness card. Fold them over and glue them down leaving the tabs unglued. Once the glue is dry, cut out the parts.


Fit the legs into the body. Glue one of the large disks to the leg tabs. Make sure that the leg is free to move as the glue dries.


Repeat this process with the arms. Use the small disks to secure them.


Thread the tabs from the head inner through the holes in the lower jaw and then into the body. Glue the remaining disks over the tabs making sure that the head and jaw can move.


Glue on the eyes and the feet to complete the T. Rex. Set her to one side as you start on the box.


Assemble the two short crank pieces.


Assemble the long centre crank piece.


Fold up and glue down the four push rod ends to make double thickness card. Once the glue is dry cut out the hole and then cut out the pieces.


Roll round and glue down the four pins lining up the edges with the end of the grey area.


Assemble the push rods. Glue the two push rod ends into place and thread the 'Centre' pin through them. Make sure the pin is free to turn.


Glue the long centre crank piece between the two pins. Make sure both push rods are the same way up.


Complete the crank assembly by adding the two shorter crank pieces and the two pins. Make sure everything is as square and lined up as possible.


Fold up and glue down the tabs at the side of the box-top and box-bottom to make a right angled triangle section.

Fit the box-top stiffeners into place next to the slots in the box-top.


Fold round and glue the flaps on the box end to make equilateral triangle tubes.


Glue the top of the box end to the box-top. Glue it to the end opposite the long slots.


Assemble the two slider bars and slider tubes.


Glue the two slider bars as centrally as possible in the two slots.


They should look like this from the top. The slider tubes should be free to move back and forth.


Fit the crank assembly into the box end with the tabs on the push rods facing downwards.

Glue the tabs to the slider tubes. The crease on the tabs should line up with the centre of the slider tubes.


Fit the other box end and the box base into place to close the box.


Fold in and glue down the end flaps to make triangular tubes.


Fold in and glue down the flaps at the other end of the box onto the inside walls of the box.


Assemble the handle in three steps.


Glue the handle into place to complete the box. Once the glue is dry you can check that it is working properly by turning the handle. The slider tubes should move back and forth in oppoite directions to each other.


The skis are made from three layers laminated card.

Glue the three layer of card together. Curve the ends upwards before the glue dries. Once the glue is dry they will maintain its shape.

Let the glue dry then carefully cut out the curved end of the ski and cut off any excess card.


Two skis ready to go!


The skis glue onto the tops of the slider tubes. Turn the handle so that the two slider tubes are lined up with each other in the centre of the slider bars. Glue the two skis carefully into place so that they are centred on the box top. Make sure that the skis don't get stuck onto the box top. Rock the handle back and forth a little as the glue is drying to make sure everything is moving freely. Let the glue dry completely before moving on to the next stage.


The T Rex is glued to the ski by the front of the inside toe only. This allows her to lift her ankle as she skis. With the heel roughly five millimetres from the end of the ski glue the toe down onto the ski.


The poles are glued to the underside of the ski. They must not be glued to the box top. Assemble the two poles. Glue the tab on the end of the pole to the underside of the ski next to the star. Glue the circle onto the underside of the ski so that it is centred under the pole.


Glue the dinosaur hands to the top of the poles


Let the glue dry then turn the handle to see your T. Rex ski. Ski Rex indeed!

 

Turn the handle on the Ski Rex and watch our prehistoric friend indulge in a bit of cross country skiing!
This model is actually a mash-up of the double crank box model and the pose-able T. Rex with added skis poles and a bit of colour! I've put all the parts into one file in both coloured and uncoloured form. If you are a member you can download the parts for free at the link. Non-members can download the parts for £2.50

Let's get started!

Print out the pages onto thin card. (230 micron / 67lb) Score along the dotted and dashed lines then cut out the holes before carefully cutting out the parts. There are six sheets in this model.


Start by making the T. Rex

Glue together the four parts that make the body.


Assemble the head upper, gluing the head inners into place (Deep red in the picture) make sure the tabs on the head inners are folded inwards as shown.


Glue together the tongue support.


Glue the tongue support into the assembled lower jaw.

Curve the tongue round and glue it to the tongue support.


The arms and legs are double thickness card. Fold them over and glue them down leaving the tabs unglued. Once the glue is dry, cut out the parts.


Fit the legs into the body. Glue one of the large disks to the leg tabs. Make sure that the leg is free to move as the glue dries.


Repeat this process with the arms. Use the small disks to secure them.


Thread the tabs from the head inner through the holes in the lower jaw and then into the body. Glue the remaining disks over the tabs making sure that the head and jaw can move.


Glue on the eyes and the feet to complete the T. Rex. Set her to one side as you start on the box.


Assemble the two short crank pieces.


Assemble the long centre crank piece.


Fold up and glue down the four push rod ends to make double thickness card. Once the glue is dry cut out the hole and then cut out the pieces.


Roll round and glue down the four pins lining up the edges with the end of the grey area.


Assemble the push rods. Glue the two push rod ends into place and thread the 'Centre' pin through them. Make sure the pin is free to turn.


Glue the long centre crank piece between the two pins. Make sure both push rods are the same way up.


Complete the crank assembly by adding the two shorter crank pieces and the two pins. Make sure everything is as square and lined up as possible.


Fold up and glue down the tabs at the side of the box-top and box-bottom to make a right angled triangle section.

Fit the box-top stiffeners into place next to the slots in the box-top.


Fold round and glue the flaps on the box end to make equilateral triangle tubes.


Glue the top of the box end to the box-top. Glue it to the end opposite the long slots.


Assemble the two slider bars and slider tubes.


Glue the two slider bars as centrally as possible in the two slots.


They should look like this from the top. The slider tubes should be free to move back and forth.


Fit the crank assembly into the box end with the tabs on the push rods facing downwards.

Glue the tabs to the slider tubes. The crease on the tabs should line up with the centre of the slider tubes.


Fit the other box end and the box base into place to close the box.


Fold in and glue down the end flaps to make triangular tubes.


Fold in and glue down the flaps at the other end of the box onto the inside walls of the box.


Assemble the handle in three steps.


Glue the handle into place to complete the box. Once the glue is dry you can check that it is working properly by turning the handle. The slider tubes should move back and forth in oppoite directions to each other.


The skis are made from three layers laminated card.

Glue the three layer of card together. Curve the ends upwards before the glue dries. Once the glue is dry they will maintain its shape.

Let the glue dry then carefully cut out the curved end of the ski and cut off any excess card.


Two skis ready to go!


The skis glue onto the tops of the slider tubes. Turn the handle so that the two slider tubes are lined up with each other in the centre of the slider bars. Glue the two skis carefully into place so that they are centred on the box top. Make sure that the skis don't get stuck onto the box top. Rock the handle back and forth a little as the glue is drying to make sure everything is moving freely. Let the glue dry completely before moving on to the next stage.


The T Rex is glued to the ski by the front of the inside toe only. This allows her to lift her ankle as she skis. With the heel roughly five millimetres from the end of the ski glue the toe down onto the ski.


The poles are glued to the underside of the ski. They must not be glued to the box top. Assemble the two poles. Glue the tab on the end of the pole to the underside of the ski next to the star. Glue the circle onto the underside of the ski so that it is centred under the pole.


Glue the dinosaur hands to the top of the poles


Let the glue dry then turn the handle to see your T. Rex ski. Ski Rex indeed!

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